New York spring 2027: Joan of Arc tailoring, Western suede and sporty cuts
Joan of Arc met Western shirts in New York as designers presented spring 2027 collections across the city.
New York Fashion Week for spring-summer 2027 is scheduled for 10 to 15 September 2026. The official schedule is owned and organised by the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA), and its preliminary list starts with Henry Zankov's debut for Diane von Furstenberg on 10 September and closes with Thom Browne on 15 September CFDA.
The week also stretches beyond the runway calendar. American designer Ralph Lauren presented its spring 2027 collection ahead of the week Reuters, while COS showed its Spring Summer 2027 collection in New York on 13 September.
Mel Usine, designed by Stephen Biga, looked to Joan of Arc through the 1928 film The Passion of Joan of Arc WWD. The reference shaped tailoring in rugged-looking linen with raw edges. Hook-and-eye fastenings were left intentionally undone.
The collection paired that toughness with lightness. Wisp-thin dresses came in sutured lace or chiffon printed with an 18th-century floral motif. Biga also brought back the label's signature metal mesh, this time as separates. He called it the most "modular" of the three collections he has shown, meaning pieces are designed to be mixed and worn apart.
Silvia Tcherassi took a sportier turn for spring 2027. The ready-to-wear range, meaning clothes made in standard sizes rather than to measure, used cutouts, racer necklines and geometric colourblocking. Prints came from warped beach photographs taken from inside a moving car.
Accessories followed the same summer logic. The label's knotted Sofia bag was offered in raffia, a straw-like fibre often used for warm-weather bags. Sofia Tcherassi told WWD the brand has fans among partners of Formula 1 drivers, including Carmen Montero Mundt, fiancee of George Russell.
Rùadh, designed by Jac Cameron, showed away from the runway. The spring 2027 collection was presented from a by-appointment studio in SoHo, where buyers view clothes privately, next door to Khaite and Alaia. The line-up included a patchwork denim jacket with bootcut jeans, cut wide below the knee. Rumpled viscose and parachute-like nylon added a looser note, including trench coats with dolman sleeves, a deep, draped arm shape.
Nili Lotan worked with Western and Americana codes. The house described the starting point as "Serge Gainsbourg meeting Townes Van Zandt." That translated into pinstriped tailoring and washed denim worn with suede, lace and red accents. Details included silver-buckled belts, studded denim, a fringed suede jacket and Western shirts with pointed yokes and snap buttons.
For fans following along at home, this is the other half of fashion week. Big names draw the cameras. Smaller luxury and alternative labels use the same week to reach shops and shoppers directly, one look at a time.
