Aaron Esh previews Spring 2027 label while leading AllSaints

Aaron Esh previewed his Spring 2027 own-label collection, titled “Laws of Attraction”, ahead of a show at Camden’s Electric Ballroom.

The preview took place in the east London showroom of AllSaints, the London-based fashion retailer, repurposed as a casting and fitting space. Esh continues to run his four-year-old London label alongside his day job as chief creative officer of AllSaints, a 300-plus-store global business, according to WWD.

Esh is an alumnus of Central Saint Martins, the London fashion school. He joined AllSaints to oversee its women’s and men’s collections and steer its overall creative direction, including marketing campaigns, according to the appointment announcement reported by Business of Fashion. Peter Wood is chief executive of AllSaints.

His first collection for the retailer was the Autumn/Winter 2026 range. It was revealed on 1 September after almost a year of preparation, according to Vogue. The launch came with a new campaign and visual identity reaffirming the brand’s London roots, according to The Industry Fashion.

For his own label, Esh described the Spring 2027 concept as “visual disturbance”. Things need to attract rather than match, he said. He likes discomfort. He said he enjoys making people feel slightly uncomfortable.

That idea is worked through in cut, colour and styling. Esh uses an earthy salmon-pink leather for jackets. He calls the shade “vomit pink”. He linked the pink to the British punk sensibility associated with the Sex Pistols.

He once described his brand as for boys and girls living in Hackney. He now says it is about the mentality and attitude of evening and fashion. The shift is from postcode to mood.

Much of the construction stays close to home. His safari jackets, dispatch coats and leather pieces are mostly made in London. He skipped the February show season to gain more time for craft development.

One coat took more than 100 hours to make. Organza was cut into strips, hand-dyed, brushed and re-embroidered as petals. Leather sits under the collars, and the coat is fully lined.

What makes this stand out is the double workload. Few designers run a namesake label while directing a large retailer. The retail side is expanding too. Net-a-porter, the online luxury retailer, is about to launch the Aaron Esh brand from autumn 2026. Smaller stockists, the shops that carry the label in limited quantities, include Dover Street Market, the London-based concept store.