Chan Luu's intern-turned-owner grows clothing to half of online sales
An intern now owns the label she started at — and clothing drives almost half its online sales.
Chan Luu, the Los Angeles-based jewellery and clothing label, is up 60 percent in gross revenue year-to-date versus the same period last year, according to company figures shared exclusively with WWD. Tessa Tran is chief executive officer and creative director.
The label was founded in 1996 as a passion project by Vietnamese-born designer Chan Luu. It became known for fine jewellery, artisanal accessories and a small amount of ready-to-wear, clothes made in standard sizes and sold off the peg.
That clothing line was paused before the pandemic. In 2014, the business sold a majority stake to private investors.
Tran joined as an intern and worked her way up. She fully bought back the company in 2023.
Three styles now lead the clothing revival. The Techno Taffeta trousers, Pinch Waist Cardigan and lightweight outerwear including the Vienna Coat are strong sellers.
Ready-to-wear grew from 15 percent of e-commerce business last year to almost 50 percent by September 2026. E-commerce itself is up 64 percent year-over-year, with ready-to-wear sales up 400 percent.
Growth is not only direct. Wholesale, selling to shops that resell to shoppers, is up 20 percent. Partners include online retailers Moda Operandi, Fwrd and Shopbop, and Nordstrom, the US department store chain. A launch on Net-a-porter, the online luxury retailer, is set for October 2026.
May was the biggest e-commerce month in the company's history. It was achieved without discounts or promotions.
The label has returned to the catwalk. It presented on calendar during February and September New York Fashion Weeks over the past year.
Design happens in Tran's Los Angeles studio. Production runs through family-run workshops in Vietnam, Mongolia and India.
What makes this stand out is the shape of the recovery. Many labels chase growth with markdowns. Chan Luu reports its record month came at full price, led by repeatable trousers, knitwear and coats rather than one-off statement pieces.
