Milan tailoring holds strong for spring 2027
Tailoring held its ground in Milan for spring 2027, with Brioni, Kiton and Blazé Milano showing precise suits, evening jackets and dresses cut close to the body.
The presentations were part of Milan Fashion Week, which ran from 22 to 28 September 2026. Trade title WWD described the season's sartorial offer as strong and convincing in a report on the week. WWD
Brioni, the Italian tailoring house, kept Rome as a core inspiration. Its palette for spring centred on white, shades of blue and terracotta, alongside silks with a metallic effect.
Daywear focused on light blended fabrics. One key look paired a double-breasted jacket, with overlapping fronts and two rows of buttons, in a wool, silk and linen blend, with a plain-weave cotton poplin shirt. It was worn with wide-leg trousers with two folds at the waistband, cut from Zefiro, a blend of cashmere, silk and linen.
Eveningwear pushed further into decoration. The offer included an evening jacket in silk and silver-thread jacquard, a patterned woven fabric, with a leaf motif. There was also a double-breasted tuxedo in wool and silk, and a jacket in barathea, a smooth suiting wool, with embroidery and crystal details forming a raised foliage pattern. That embroidery takes about 60 hours to complete.
Brioni also pointed to La Donna Atelier, its Su Misura project for women. Su Misura means made-to-measure, cut to the individual customer. The service offers personalisation through choice of fabrics, linings, buttons and monogrammed details.
Kiton, the Italian tailoring brand, showed its spring collection at its store on Via Sant'Andrea in central Milan. The space is to become the brand's first boutique entirely dedicated to womenswear, according to Maria Giovanna Paone.
A new menswear flagship for Kiton is due to open soon on Via Montenapoleone, Milan's luxury shopping street. For spring, Kiton added a capsule inspired by the America's Cup sailing race. It used navy blue and white vertical stripes and nautical motifs on tailored jackets, shirts and technical outerwear.
Blazé Milano looked to New York society for spring 2027. The collection referenced Truman Capote's 'Swans of Fifth Avenue,' his name for the wealthy social figures around him. The brand reworked that high-society wardrobe into suits, blazer jackets and dresses in silk jacquard and cotton canvas, cut in slender silhouettes. Blazé Milano was founded by Corrada Rodriguez d'Acri, Delfina Pinardi and Maria Sole Torlonia.
What makes this stand out is the emphasis on making. Long hand hours, measured fits and fabric blends did the talking. For viewers, this means less spectacle and more attention to cloth, cut and finish.
