Paris Spring 2027: Skirts Lead Return of Femininity

The skirt won Paris Fashion Week for spring 2027.

WWD, the American fashion trade publication, reported that the skirt emerged as the season's defining piece in Paris. Buyers backed all versions of it as the main vehicle for a return to femininity. Dresses remain important, but the skirt led orders.

April Hennig, president of Moda Operandi, the American online luxury retailer, told WWD that "Fashion is fun again." She described Spring 2027 as a season of "eclectic maximalism," meaning mixed-up, more-is-more dressing after several seasons of restraint.

Tiffany Hsu, chief buying and group fashion venture officer at Mytheresa, the German online luxury retailer, told WWD the season marked a "return of emotion and personality." She said customers are moving away from quiet luxury, the pared-back, logo-free look, towards more expressive and personal clothes.

In Paris, that femininity looked softer and more sensual. Collections used bustiers, fitted strapless tops, bra tops, bandeaux, narrow strapless tops, lingerie details, transparency, lace and fluid fabrics. The waist is back, marked by belts, ties, peplums, short flares at the hip, and corsetry, structured lacing and boning.

Victoria Dartigues, womenswear and accessories buying director at Galeries Lafayette, the French department-store group, told WWD that Paris was about being dressed and slightly undressed at the same time. The reporting pointed to skin shown through sheer panels alongside tailoring and covered-up shapes.

Colour did heavy work. Buyers pointed to bold red, turquoise, blue and yellow, plus fringe, tassels and embellishment. Forbes, the American business magazine, reported that gold dominated in Paris, appearing in trench coats, blazers, tailored pencil skirts, neck scarves and cocktail dresses.

The money behind the mood is selective. WWD reported that retail budgets are generally up for Spring 2027, but spending is concentrated on collections with a clear brand identity, strong sell-through and standout product. Sell-through means stock that sells at full price without markdown. Investment is shifting towards skirts, feminine ready-to-wear, factory-made clothes in standard sizes, occasionwear, clothes bought for events, and accessories, particularly jewellery, belts and scarves.

Paris closed a nine-day womenswear ready-to-wear calendar that ran from 28 September to 6 October, with 68 shows and 34 presentations, according to Vogue, the fashion magazine. Chanel, the French luxury house, and Valentino, the Italian luxury house, both presented Spring/Summer 2027 collections during the week. The season had already passed through New York, London and Milan, where retailers named Prada, the Italian luxury house, and Gucci, the Italian luxury house, among the strongest collections, and picked out Erdem, the London-based label, and Simone Rocha, the London-based label, in London.

What makes this stand out for shoppers is the clarity of the signal. For several seasons buyers talked about choice and range. In Paris they named one garment, in many lengths and fabrics, and tied it to wearability: waists marked, colour up, decoration back, with shoes, jewellery and scarves to finish the look.