Marine Serre Returns to Paris With 33 Looks as Young Labels Present

Marine Serre returned to the Paris runway after three seasons away with a tight Spring 2027 collection and a search for money still in progress.

The Paris-based label showed 33 looks under the title "The Deep Shine", according to WWD. Serre had missed the last three seasons, went into receivership in July and is seeking an investor. Receivership, a court-supervised process used in France to give a struggling company time to find cash and keep trading, leaves the business operating while talks continue.

The showing was part of Paris Fashion Week Ready-to-Wear Spring/Summer 2027, the factory-made clothes in standard sizes that make up most shop stock. The event, organised by the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode, which runs the Paris schedule and decides who may call a collection couture, ran from 28 September to 6 October 2026. The main women's ready-to-wear calendar listed 68 shows, according to Vogue, with smaller labels using presentations, where buyers and press see clothes up close rather than on a catwalk.

One of those was Yoshita 1967. Designer Anil Padia presented the Spring 2027 collection in intimate showings in the orangerie on the Paris campus of Istituto Marangoni, the fashion school. The label arrived with two recent wins behind it. It took the European leg of the Circular Design Challenge and the Savoir-Faire Prize at the 2026 LVMH Prize for Young Designers, the annual award backed by LVMH, the French luxury group.

Abra took a different route. Designer Abraham Ortuño Perez based the Spring 2027 collection on two stories of small worlds. One source was "Arrietty", the film from Studio Ghibli, the Japanese animation studio, about tiny borrowers living under the floor. The other was Alice in Wonderland.

The WWD feature also covered August Barron, the label from design duo Bror August Vestbø and Benjamin Barron. Presentations give young teams a cheaper way to stay on the schedule. No big venue. No full production.

What makes this stand out is the mix of pressures on show. A returning name is rebuilding while in a legal process. Newer names are using prizes, schools and close-up formats to get attention without the cost of a show. For fans, this means the most telling Paris moments were not always on the runway. Some were in a glasshouse with a few chairs.