Boss Rebuilds Its Womenswear Line Under Kerstin Dorst, With Sizes 30 to 50

Hugo Boss is resetting its womenswear range, starting with a fall 2027 collection of around 200 styles. The line now follows the French sizing scale, which runs from 30 to 50, WWD reported on 29 October.

The reset is being led by Kerstin Dorst, who joined the German fashion group in January as senior vice president of its womenswear business unit. A business unit is a division that runs one part of a company's operations, here the women's clothing range. The post was newly created.

Dorst's career has been split between sportswear and fashion. She spent more than five years at Adidas, the German sportswear company, where she helped launch its Slvr premium sportswear line. Before that she spent over a decade at Tory Burch, the New York fashion label, working on its main collection and its sportswear.

In January, Hugo Boss announced a new "powerhouse" structure for the company, with the womenswear post as part of it. Dorst took up the role on 15 January. She oversees creative direction for the women's collections and works closely with Hugo Boss creative director Marco Falcioni.

The womenswear reset sits inside a wider plan. In December, Hugo Boss unveiled a turnaround strategy it calls Claim 5 Touchdown, under the motto "better before bigger", a phrase that puts profitability ahead of size. Womenswear accounts for around 10 percent of the company's business, according to WWD.

Ownership has also changed. British conglomerate Frasers Group came under control of Hugo Boss on 23 October, WWD reported.

For shoppers, the most concrete change is the size range and the number of styles. The fall 2027 collection will be the first full test of the new direction, with the wider size scale in place from the start.

Hugo Boss's womenswear remains a small part of the group, but the reset begins with a clear date: the autumn and winter season of 2027.